Put the meat through a mincer set to the finest setting. If you don’t have a mincer, cut the meat into thin slices, then into strips, and finally into tiny cubes using a very sharp knife.
Mix the minced meat with mustard and olive oil. Season with salt and plenty of pepper. If desired, chill the meat, but do not leave it in the fridge for more than half an hour before serving.
Rinse the lovage leaves and pat them dry with kitchen paper. Place them in a blender with the oil and blend for a couple of minutes, until the oil is green and free of any whole pieces of herb.
Strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve or a cloth if you don’t want the leaves in it.
Whisk up a mayonnaise:
Place the egg yolks in a large bowl together with the mustard, a little salt, pepper and 1 tbsp vinegar, and whisk well with an electric whisk, or if you have a good balloon whisk to thicken the mayonnaise.
Now whisk the lovage oil into the egg yolks a little
at a time in a thin stream. Pour slowly enough so that the oil is constantly being whisked into the egg yolks. Pause occasionally whilst adding the oil and whisk the mayonnaise thoroughly. Continue until all the oil has been added, then whisk
a little water into the mixture.
Whisk thoroughly once more – this helps to
ensure that the mayonnaise does not separate and that it has a nice, smooth consistency.
Finally, season to taste with salt and, if desired, a little extra vinegar. Place the mayonnaise in the fridge immediately, where it will keep for 4–5 days.
Slice the shallot into thin slices (1–2 mm thick) and separate them into rings.
Dice the kohlrabi into very small cubes and toss with capers, chives, oil and vinegar.
Fry the slices of rye bread in butter in a hot frying pan until crisp, then leave to cool until they are just warm.
Spread the tartare mixture on top, followed by the kohlrabi and capers.
Add small dollops of lovage mayonnaise and, finally, pickled red onions, shallot rings and herbs – and serve immediately
